Words by Bethany Allen

I have discovered that one of the most remote and wild corners of Cornwall lies between Land’s End and St Ives. As soon as you pass the threshold into this landscape it feels like you have been transported back in time. The higgedly piggedly layout of fields with wobbly walls made up of granite suggest that they were built hundreds, if not thousands of years ago. These are age old settlements, further accentuated by the neolithic standing stones that can be found nearby. 

The St Senara Church in Zennor dates back to the 12th Century. It is thought to stand on a site of significance; a cell, founded by the 6th Century Saint Senara, whose name has altered over the centuries to become Zennor. Legend has it that St Senara was a devout Christian princess married to a King named Goello. When she became pregnant, Goello’s mother falsely accused her of infidelity. According to the tale she was forced into a barrel as punishment which was then nailed shut and cast into the ocean. There are alternative versions of the story but the overriding consensus is that after miraculously washing up on land she gave birth to her son and then spent her time converting people to Christinity in Ireland and Cornwall.

The legend that was left by St Senara is intertwined with the story of being lost at sea. Ultimately, the church was founded by a powerful woman who came from the ocean. It therefore seems likely that this could be the reason why there is a link between mermaids and the church. The mermaid of Zennor folk tale probably stems from this initial connection. Within the tale, a young squire’s son named Matthew Trewhella sings at the church and is renowned for his exceptional voice. During one of the choir services a beautiful mermaid called Morvehen hears Matthew’s pure voice and is captivated by his song. Once the sermon ends; Morvehen can’t resist enticing Matthew to join her for a swim at Zennor cove and legend has it that he never returned. It’s said that if you stand looking out to sea at Zennor on a warm summer’s evening you may well hear the sound of Matthew and Morvehen’s singing emanate from beneath the waves.

During the sixteenth century, the legend of the mermaid of Zennor was captured in a wood carving ingrained on a mahogany bench end in the church. This chair can still be seen today and has inspired other storytellers to create their own tales. A series that has resonated with me since I read the books when I started secondary school is the Ingo chronicles written by Helen Dunmore. I was totally lost in Ingo and the world it depicted. The series is for children ages 8+ and can be ordered from your local independent bookseller. It’s hard not to be captivated by your surroundings at Zennor, especially when the mystical feeling that abounds here is accentuated by Cornish folk tales and myths. One thing is certain, there is a tangible magic in the air as soon as you cross the boundary in to this remote and wild corner of Cornwall.