5 Swimming Spots that were once used for Smuggling

Words by Bethany Allen

Cornwall has a rich seafaring past, both in terms of its thriving fishing industry and the more rebellious smuggling scene. Surrounded by the ocean on all sides but one and situated conveniently close to the English Channel, Cornwall was a prime smuggling location. The rugged coastline full of hidden coves and secret beaches meant that many Cornish locals took part in the smuggling of illegal contraband from France and the West Indies. The most popular items included: gin, brandy, cognac, tobacco, silk, tea and spices. According to the Cornwall Smugglers web page “Fifty percent of spirits drunk in Great Britain at the end of the eighteenth century were estimated to have been smuggled into the country.” 

Our co-founder, Max, happens to be a direct descendant of one prodigious smuggler, John “red shirt” Corlyon who lived in Coverack and smuggled brandy over from France on his sailing boat during the 18th century. His nickname stemmed from the statement red shirts he wore around Coverack, which his wife would hang on the washing line after his expeditions to France as a signal that it was safe to bring his contraband back to land. Cornwall Smugglers state that: “In one year he is reported to have landed over 7000 barrels of Cognac up the slip-way at Coverack where the family lived at a cottage named Hillside which is still used to this day.” Unfortunately “red shirt” was eventually caught and locked up in the dungeons on St Michaels Mount. One night he managed to escape his prison, but was then shot dead in the water as he attempted to reach the mainland. I think this is where Max’s mischievous side stems from, and his love for ocean adventures.

There are many places in Cornwall that have similar smuggling tales, and when I visit them my imagination is filled with the drama that could have unfolded on their shores. Here are 5 of my favourites:

1. Polperro

Located on Cornwall’s south coast, Polperro is a small harbour town that spills towards the ocean in a rush of white fisherman’s cottages and famously narrow streets. On a recent visit to Polperro, I couldn’t help but think of Cornwall’s heritage as I walked through the cramped streets, I saw how close together the houses on either side had become and thought to myself, these streets were definitely not made for cars. It felt like I had been transported back in time. Then as I reached the end of the village the harbour opened up and it was easy to envision the dodgy dealings that would have taken place here. To the east of Polperro is Looe Island, the perfect offshore hiding place for illegal contraband that the smugglers who operated along these shores would use. 

Polperro fishing boats

2. Prussia Cove

Walking along the green path to Prussia Cove, there’s evidence of tracks leading from the beach to the fields. As I observed their winding descent it made me question what they were used for. Upon investigation I discovered that the tracks were the result of horse carts taking seaweed to the fields but I also found out that seaweed wasn’t the only valuable commodity transported from this cove. In the 18th century one particular family had authority over the lawless goings on at Prussia Cove, the Carters. John Carter became so prestigious amongst the smuggling community that he actually bestowed the name Prussia Cove on to his favourite smuggling haunt which is why it is called Prussia Cove today. 

Swimming at Prussia Cove

3. Sennen

Smuggling took place on Cornwall’s south coast throughout the year but due to the more exposed beaches and heavy swell on the north coast it could only really take place here during the summer. The benefit of heading to the north coast was that there wouldn’t have been as many revenue vessels keeping an eye on it, they were vigilant on the south coast but the less favourable conditions on the north coast meant that you were less likely to be caught. According to Smugglers Britain: “Smuggling on the north coast focused on traffic with the West Indies, and with various off-shore depots, such as Ireland, the Scillies and Lundy Island.” Consequently, Sennen would have seen the illegal smuggling of spices, tea and tobacco from the West Indies rather than the French Brandies and Cognac that were most commonly smuggled to the south coast.

Sennen

4. Coverack

“The fact that Customs posts were placed at Gweek, Coverack, Cadgwith and Borgwitha, which is halfway between Coverack and Cadgwith, indicates the intensity of smuggling on the Lizard peninsula,” outlines the Cornwall Smugglers page. The picturesque fishing cove of Coverack lies on the eastern coast of the Lizard peninsula, featuring a jumble of thatched, white washed fisherman’s cottages, the village has an impressively long history of smuggling. “There is physical proof that many old houses in Coverack have secret hiding places. In nearly every small cottage there are three or four planks which can be removed easily from the floor of one of the bedrooms.” John “red shirt” Corlyon (Max’s ancestor) was one of the most successful smugglers operating from Coverack during the 18th Century, working in league with the Carter brothers at Prussia Cove until his attempted escape from St Michaels dungeons and subsequent death at the young age of 32. 

Max swimming at Coverack

5. Porthcothan

When pepper was taxed heavily during the 18th century, it became a popular item for Cornwall’s smugglers and tiny Pepper Cove, a little way north of Porthcothan, takes its name from the boatloads of spice that were landed here. It is a typical smugglers cove. The entrance from the sea is narrow, and fringed with jagged rocks; once inside, a smuggler’s vessel would be totally hidden by the high cliffs. Nearby is Wills Rock, where smugglers once left a revenue man to drown in the rising tide but amazingly, the officer lived to tell the tale. Porthcothan Cove was used by the smugglers to hide contraband and transport it from the beach via a tunnel system. There is a cave at Porthcothan that has notches near the mouth – smugglers would lodge a beam of timber here and use a cover of earth to hide the cave, which supposedly once led to a farm half a mile away.

Sunset at Porthcothan

Next time you’re swimming at one of these locations I hope that your imagination is fired up as much as mine has been as you envision the dramas of Cornwall’s smuggling past unfold along the coastline. It gives another layer of adventure to my swims that makes me appreciate Cornwall and the chance to swim here even more. If you’re interested in learning more Cornish History then feel free to check out my other blog on the Mermaid of Zennor, delving in to the legend of Zennor church and the folk tales of mermaids that abounded here.